Individual Review: Larceny Barrel Proof - Batch B521

Opening Statement (Description of the Whiskey):

Larceny Barrel Proof Batch B521 is a Wheated Uncut and Unfiltered Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey produced by Heaven Hill Distillery. Heaven Hill is the largest family owned and operated American distillery and the sixth largest supplier of distilled spirits in United States. The distillery was founded in 1933 after prohibition and was funded in large part by the Shapira family in Kentucky. In 1935, the Shapiras bought out the distillery and have kept the business in the family ever since. Today, Max Shapira is the current president of Heaven Hill. The company’s Larceny Bourbon line is named for the legendary crime of John E. Fitzgerald (who is also the namesake for Old Fitzgerald Bourbon). The story goes that Fitzgerald was a Federal Treasury Agent in the late 1800s and early 1900s. His position made him one of the few people who had keys to the bourbon rickhouses. Fitzgerald abused this privilege by sneaking into the rickhouses and siphoning whiskey from the best barrels for himself; thus committing “larceny.”

Heaven Hill currently sells 2 versions of Larceny: Small Batch and Barrel Proof. The Small Batch can be bought year-round almost anywhere in the United States and is 92 proof. The Barrel Proof only has 2 batches released per year and is allocated. Every Barrel Proof batch varies in proof. The B520 batch was voted 2020 Whiskey of the Year by Whisky Advocate. “B” means it was the second batch release of the year, “5” means it was released in May, and “20” means it was from the year 2020. The batch I am reviewing is B521.

Parent Company: Not applicable. Heaven Hill Brands is privately owned by the Shapira family.

Distillery & Bottling Company: Heaven Hill

Mash Bill: 68% Corn, 20% Wheat, and 12% Malted Barley

Proof: 121

Age: A Mix of 6 to 8 Year Old Bourbons

Direct Examination (AKA Tasting Notes):

Nose: Vanilla Icing, Creamy Caramel, Strawberry Jam, Cinnamon, Strong Ethanol

Palate: Vanilla, Buttery Brown Sugar Pastry Crust, Black Pepper

Finish: Strawberry Pastry with Icing (like a Toaster Strudel), Lasting Caramel, Cinnamon, Oak, Dry Leather, Slow Burning Medium Black Pepper

Mouth Feel: Heavy

Length: Long

Cross Examination (AKA The Whiskey's Shortcomings):

There is a bit of bitter oak and leather on the finish that is a hair to prominent and the wonderful flavors this bourbon has to offer can get lost behind the heat.

Closing Arguments (AKA Conclusions about the Whiskey):

Larceny Barrel Proof Batch B521 is a quality product. If the whiskey that Fitzgerald stole a century ago was anything like this then I can see why he turned to a life of crime. The range of flavors is great. There is fruit, baking spices, buttery sweetness, and pepper. I really like this whiskey and am sad that it is unfortunately allocated.

This bottle goes for about $80 if bought directly from Heaven Hill’s gift shop. If bought from a liquor store, the price is likely to be about $100 or more (similar to how Elijah Craig Barrel Proof is priced). I would find it hard to justify paying much more than $100 for this bottle. It is good, but not THAT good. Nonetheless, it is worth still “stealing” a pour if the opportunity presents itself.

Verdict (AKA Score): 8.25

Verdict Key:

10: I do not possess the vocabulary to adequately or accurately describe this masterpiece. It should not be possible for man to create such art.

9: Incredible. Hoard this stuff. Paying secondary market prices is totally worth it.

8: A real pleasure to sip. Always try to have at least one bottle and a back up on hand.

7: A solid pour. Daily drinker for sure. Try to have a bottle on hand.

6: Would not say no to a pour if offered to me, but I won't go out of my way to find it.

5: Good to mix with a coke.

4: Swing and a miss. A mixer makes it tolerable.

3: Only if I had nothing else to drink in the house.

2: Was this made in a prison toilet?

1: This is the stuff the KGB used to slowly and painfully kill prisoners.

0: An abomination of epic proportions. Should not be called whiskey.